Tartu. Trip experience

Please advise a hearty restaurant in Tartu. We will arrive in the evening, it will be Saturday, where would we go for dinner right away? Maybe live music ... The interior is beautiful .. And not the most expensive. What is Estonian cuisine?
Where can I have breakfast in the morning? :) in the center. The hotel did not order breakfasts. Although this is probably easier.

Sections: Baltics / Estonia

Translation:
Every morning the bouquet of aromas of warm pastries from the oven will take your breath away. And freshly ground coffee will surprise even our long-time customers again and again. Our master pastry chefs and bakers prepare delicacies that are unmatched in Estonia. Quality is guaranteed by fresh products, long traditions and all recipes and methods are jealously kept secret.

Werner - beloved and vaunted!

NB! You can also order from the cafe from the restaurant menu.

geographically, we will settle in the Alexandri hotel at 42 Aleksandri Street. Although the proximity of the restaurant-inn to the hotel is not required. It's still not very far from the very center.

Somewhat out of topic. Are you by car or on foot? Please note that there is only numbering along Alexandri Street, the hotel itself faces the embankment and you need to go there along the embankment.

Small amendment. The embankment across the road (leave the hotel, turn left and until the intersection) and you don't need to go there at all if the goal is Old city... I left the hotel - I turned to the right - and went straight along the street of the same name, until the big intersection, where Hanza Keskus and Kaubamaya are located. A large construction site on the right side can serve as a reference point. a new center is being built there (shops, spa, etc.)

Personally, it was scary for me to walk among the winter darkness along the absolutely extinct Alexandri Street, on broken asphalt, past abandoned wooden houses. (During the day, it’s easy, very useful for getting to know the local flavor.) Therefore, I advised you to move along the embankment. By the way, in order to go to Alexandri from the exit from the hotel, you need to turn right 2 times. But, I repeat: in the winter in the dark, I really do not advise.

The spirit is already taking over! :)
We will be by car, but we plan to take it to the hotel and then leave it. And we will go for a walk in the Old Town on foot so as not to look for parking spots in an unfamiliar city. 1.5 km. we will master it to the Old City.
This, by the way, will be in the weekend.

Julia_SPb, what's so bleak? But there will be four of us.

I was already in Tartu 7 years ago, passing through. We then went to Riga and Tartu was just a place to spend the night. The only thing I remember is the main street with shops. We didn't even get to the old town then, although it was very close. So one could say that I did not see the city. And last week was the opportunity to get to know him better.

We went to Estonia with a cheerful company at the invitation of a SKODA dealer in St. Petersburg - Auto Premium company... For us, there were five cars in the convoy: three Kodiaqs with different engines and an Octavia with 1.4 TSI. I tested Kodiaki a couple of times before, there was and. But the restyled Octavia was new to me.

We started early in the morning. Traditional dressing on Nesta with French dogs and coffee:
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The Kingisepp highway is being expanded in some places. I hope to catch as soon as possible the time when it will be possible to drive to Ivangorod along a wide highway of two lanes in each direction:
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We crossed the border quite quickly, there were not many people who wanted to get to Narva by car. Immediately after the border, we drove straight to the Narva Castle. Half of the square in front of the castle is being reconstructed; on the left you can see a part of an excavator.
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Ivangorod Fortress and Narva River:
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I visited the inner courtyard of the Narva Fortress for the first time. Before that, all the time they were rushing up to the tower:
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From here the best view of the border bridge across the Narva:
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On the way, we stopped for a short time at Toolse to see the ruins of a local castle on the shore of the bay. I launched a quadrocopter here, took a banal picture. I'm afraid so far without experience to launch the copter far. Leaving here we ran into the police, which were called by too vigilant local residents. Apparently, they found the convoy of seven cars suspicious, six of which had Russian license plates.
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Further along the route was Rakvere. We visited the castle, of course. I was here 3 times, it doesn't bother :) This time we were present at two shots from the cannon. It was very loud! So much so that before shooting, it is recommended to cover your ears and open your mouth.
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March of the local knights:
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We arrived in Rakvere. There is cool police museum... Recommended if driving past Rakvere:
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The museum staff advised to devote at least an hour and a half to the excursion, but we had about 30 minutes. We almost ran through the museum building.
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For a long time they were hanging at the simulator, which is in the photo below. The simulator clearly allows you to assess the reaction of a person. You have to get into the "car", press the gas pedal, look at the traffic light and catch the moment of switching from green to red. As soon as the red lights up, you need to take your foot off the gas as soon as possible and press the brake. The timer to the left of the traffic light shows the time that elapsed from the moment the lights were switched until the brake was pressed. Right in milliseconds. Our record is about 0.5 seconds. And so that they understand: in this very short time, a car, the speed of which was 90 kilometers per hour, will have time to drive another 12.5 meters.
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Let's go further, take a selfie along the way :) I liked sitting in the back seat of the SKODA Kodiaq. There is a lot of space, it is convenient. But I like driving more, of course :) All the way we tried to understand the work of active cruise control. No one found a way to adjust the distance between the cars, although the lever was in sight :)
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We arrived in Tartu and first of all we stopped at the A. le Coq brewery. It is the oldest beverage manufacturer in Estonia. The plant itself was founded in 1826, but its history began earlier. A. Le Coq & Co was founded in London in 1807 by Belgian Albert Le Coq. Today the plant produces 11 different types drinks: beer, ciders, soft drinks, kvass, energy drinks and others.
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We walked through the production premises of the plant. I was impressed by the huge vats of beer probably the size of a five-story building. We walked along the top of these vats and looked at our feet.
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Here beer is poured and packaged in containers:
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From the production premises there is an exit to the roof, a kind of observation deck overlooking the city:
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From here you can see the buildings of the city center:
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We arrived in the city center:
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We had supper at the "Powder Barrel" restaurant.
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It is notable for being included in the Guinness Book of Records as the restaurant with the highest ceilings. The distance from the floor of the restaurant to the ceiling is 11 meters.
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The solyanka in the bread was delicious and very satisfying.
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A local observatory that no longer fulfills its function.
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Tartu has its own "leaning tower" - the house in the photo below, which stands on the Town Hall Square under a slight but noticeable slope. The house was built at the beginning of the 19th century after a great fire completely destroyed the wooden center of the city in 1775. After that, they decided to build houses only of stone. The house was originally of the correct shape. The terrain in Tartu is mostly marshy, the right side of the house stood on the remains of a stone wall, and the left on wooden piles. Over time, the tree rotted and the house warped. At the end of the 20th century, the house was restored, the floors were leveled and made a monument.
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Most of all I was pleased with the mention of this bridge near the university building. It is called the Devil's Bridge. And among the students there is a funny legend that the bridge will be destroyed only when a virgin graduate passes along it :)
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Then we had a street art tour in Tartu. This city, by the way, is considered the center of Estonian street art. Our guide was a girl who did not give her name. The organizers called her "Estonian Banksy". The photo below shows the most painted wall in Tartu, which is under the road bridge.
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Then they took us to an abandoned building and were given a set of special paint cans for painting. Something solid is dangling inside the can, like a ball. Shake the spray before drawing.
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I can't draw at all. Therefore, I did not come up with anything more original than drawing my nickname on social networks. I want to note that it is very difficult to paint smoothly and beautifully with spray paint. Even simple letters came out awkward for me and strove to go down :) It is necessary to draw with short and sharp strokes so that no drops form.
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On the way back to Narva, we stopped for lunch at the Alatskivi castle, and then in the Pechudye region, in the village of Kolka, where Estonian Old Believers live and work. We were given a master class on printing drawings on fabric bags.
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Thank you company Auto Premium for an invitation to an organized trip, and for guides and companies Discover Estonia for the excursions! Thanks to him, I saw new places in Estonia and got to know this country even a little better.

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In October 2013, the rating will be published again best restaurants Estonia - “The 50 Best Restaurants of Estonia”. Places included in the Top 50/2013 will be ranked based on the ratings and reviews of numerous experts - restaurateurs, chefs, restaurant reviewers, professional critics and well-known bloggers. The organizer and inspirer of this prestigious award is Aivar Hanson, head of the Flavors of Estonia program.

The city is represented this year by six different establishments: “Antonius”, “La Dolce Vita”, “Meat Market Steak & Cocktail”, “Polpo”, “Cafe Truffe” and “Werner” - our today's review is devoted to them. And it is not so important which line these restaurants will occupy in the final table, because being on this list is already an important achievement.

Italian trattoria

Kompanii 10, Tartu / Tartu, Companies St., 10
Ideal for friendly meals and family outings. Average bill without drinks - 30 euro

The Italian restaurant-pizzeria "La Dolce Vita" has been operating since 2003. It is located in the Old Town, at the intersection of Company and Gildi streets.

It has a democratic atmosphere and simple interior: whitewashed walls, wooden chairs and checkered tablecloths on the tables. A bit noisy and a little crowded, but people come here not in search of romance, but for good food for reasonable money, large portions and a relaxed atmosphere.

Restaurant bill:
Insalata Caprese - 6 euro
Ravioli Tradizionali (with ham, cream sauce and parmesan) - 8 euro
Pizza Leonardo (mozzarella, gorgonzola, estonian cheese, parmesan, peperoncino salami - 7.50 euro
Wine Cesari Chianti - 3.25 euro

European dinner in classic style

(hotel "London"), Rüütli 9, Tartu / Tartu, Rüütli st. 9
Ideal for business meetings and leisurely dinners. Average bill without drinks: 40 euro

The Polpo Restaurant occupies the minus the first floor of the London Hotel. Once upon a time, a wine bar worked in this room, and at the end of the last century there was a beer establishment known and loved by many Tartu residents. Now the restaurant can be accessed through the lobby of the hotel, from the pedestrian Rüütli street, or through a separate entrance from Küütry street, there is also a free public parking lot.

Although "Polpo" occupies, in fact, a semi-basement room, it is very light and comfortable here. White vaulted ceilings merge into columns, thus zoning the space of the restaurant. Restrained color scheme of interior elements - beige, gray and olive shades prevail, comfortable furniture, quiet background music - all this creates a pacifying atmosphere. And if the interior of the restaurant symbolizes elegant simplicity, then the design of the dishes can be called exquisite.

The restaurant's kitchen is run by the chef Ave Jaeger. The menu includes European and Mediterranean classics with elements of modern Estonian cuisine. The emphasis is on the quality of raw materials, seasonality, purity of taste and healthiness of food, local products are actively used. In the morning "Polpo" serves breakfast for hotel guests (takeaway service is also available), and in the afternoon and evening the restaurant is open à la carte.

Restaurant bill:
Salad with goat cheese glazed in honey and parsley oil from the chef, served with seasonal salad and fried beets - 8,5 euro
Meat tartare with homemade adjika, capers, pickled cucumbers, quail yolks and fried buns in butter - 12 euro
Tornedo Rossini with prune chutney seasonal vegetables and red wine sauce - 19 euro
Refreshing sorbet "Polpo" - 4 euro

Coffee and cakes

, Ülikooli 11, Tartu / Tartu, Ülikooli 11
Average bill without drinks: 8 euro in a bakery and 20 euro in a restaurant

Werner is perhaps the most famous café in Tartu, a kind of city landmark. It owes its name to pastry chef Johann Werner, who opened a coffee shop here at the end of the 19th century. Situated between the Town Hall and the University of Tartu, Werner has been a favorite meeting place for students and professors of this renowned institution for decades. Notebooks with notes were replaced by notebooks, but otherwise, according to Tartu residents, "Werner" is still the same.
On the ground floor of a slightly shabby two-story mansion, there is a coffee shop and pastry shop. The aroma of freshly ground coffee and warm bread reigns here. Showcases - an abundance of all kinds of cakes, pastries and sweet pastries... All this can be tried on the spot, or ordered to go. For a cup of espresso they ask for 2.1 euro, cappuccino costs 1.6 euro, latte and cocoa - 1.8. Specialty coffee "Werner" (Carolanne, espresso, whipped cream, chocolate chips) will cost 6,3 euro, most of the cakes cost from 1 to 3 euro.

The second floor of the house is occupied by a restaurant. It is much quieter, lighter and more spacious here than in a pastry shop. The interior is rustic, with a slight claim to elegance, the serving is minimal, the background sounds a la Romantic Collection from a CD-player. The guests are mostly foreign tourists. European cuisine; except for soups (3 euro), salads (2-7 euro) and main dishes (5-11 euro), the menu has a separate section with pasta (4-9 euro).

Unfortunately, neither the food nor the service on the second floor made a favorable impression on me, but based on the opinion of Werner's regulars, I dare to recommend the cafe-confectionery, for, I quote: "The best cakes in the city."

Restaurant bill:
Weekly puree soup - 3 euro
Duck marinated with strawberries, potato pie and fresh salad- 11 euro
Chocolate fondant with ice cream - 3 euro

Romantic candlelight dinner

(hotel "Antonius"), Ülikooli 15, Tartu, / Tartu, Ülikooli st., 15
Recommended for couples yearning for romance, lovers of antiquity, atmospheric restaurants and French cuisine. Average bill without drinks is 50 euro.

Antonius is the restaurant of the eponymous five-star boutique hotel located in the center of Tartu, directly opposite the main building of the University of Tartu.
The restaurant occupies the basement of the hotel and does not have a separate entrance.
The building in question is an architectural monument, many ancient details are very carefully preserved in the interior - stucco decorations, door handles, fireplace facing, ceiling cornices, stone vaults of the basement ...

The vaulted ceiling of the main hall of the restaurant is decorated with extraordinary painting, and its center is crowned with a glass dome. Flowers are everywhere - on the upholstery of 19th century furniture, on elegant expensive dishes, in vases on tables. The sun's rays penetrating the room during the day create the feeling of some kind of fabulous rose garden.
In the evening, candles are burning everywhere, so you can go deep into the restaurant without fear, there, in the "cellar", there are several more small rooms for 1-2 tables. The table setting and furniture are no less exquisite, and the semi-darkness of echoing stone passages creates the atmosphere of a medieval castle. By the way, it can be pretty cool here, the restaurant has blankets for this case.

In general, in my opinion, the Antonius restaurant does not imply a casual visit. It is unthinkable to appear here in jeans and sneakers (and not because they might ask you from here, you just will not get the pleasure that you can count on by tuning in to the local atmosphere, in other words, you will feel stupid). You should also not count on a quick bite - the service is unhurried here. But for a romantic evening or celebrating any important family date, the restaurant is ideal.

The charm of "Antonius" is by no means limited to the atmosphere of other centuries. Here is beautiful french cuisine and a serious wine list. White-gloved waiters work quietly and clearly. The menu is laconic, no more than 20 items, but there are definitely plenty to choose from. Fried scallops are served here on real shells (12 euros), poached duck egg with asparagus, duck cracklings and hollandaise sauce (8 euros), fried foie gras with cinnamon and baked apple (12 euros). As a main dish, I can recommend beef tenderloin with potato casserole, stewed leeks and cognac sauce (23 euro) or fried duck breast with figs, local dessert wine, plum sauce and green salad (20 euro). You can finish your meal with a digestif in a very beautiful fireplace room-library on the ground floor of the hotel.

Restaurant bill:
Caprese salad with buffalo mozzarella and Antonius pesto - 9 euro
Fried scallops with black lentils - 12 euro
Fried duck breast with figs, local dessert wine, plum sauce and green salad - 20 euro
Beef tenderloin with potato casserole, stewed leeks and cognac sauce - 23 euro

City cafe

Raekoja plats 16, Tartu, / Tartu, Town Hall Square, 16
A great place to watch passers-by while having lunch by the window. Average bill without drinks - 25 euro

Cafe-restaurant "Truffe" has the most advantageous location - right on the Town Hall Square. But does this always reflect well on the quality of the offer? In the past, Truffe has shown significant merits, in 2011 it even took the first line in the Tartu list of “Top 50 Estonia”. What place the cafe will get this year is anyone's guess.

Restaurant bill:
Salad with cottage cheese and fried potatoes- 6 euro
Risotto with shrimps, parmesan and prunes - 8 euro
Strawberry soup - 4.5 euro

Newbie with great food

Küütri 3, Tartu / Tartu, Küütri St., 3
Meat lovers must visit. Average bill without drinks - 30 euro

Meat Market Steak & Cocktail is a transforming restaurant. During the day it is a steakhouse with an extensive menu and very high quality cuisine, and in the evening it is a cocktail dj bar.

Having opened a year and a half ago, the restaurant has definitely occupied its own niche and gained popularity. In the daytime, we barely managed to defend ourselves a table - the restaurant was overcrowded (unlike, for example, the deserted Truffe, which is part of the same restaurant holding). The waiters are lively and moderately lively, deftly maneuver between the tables, enveloping the guests waiting in line with delicious aromas fried meat.
Meat eaters have a lot to roam here: the menu includes Australian Black Angus (17 euro), New Zealand lamb (13 euro), Estonian grass-fed goby (18 euro), there are also dishes from antelope meat, wild deer, pork, poultry, etc. ...
For large companies, sets are provided meat snacks: the two waiters bring out a large wooden table top with an ordered assortment, which forms the "2nd floor" of the dining table - and it saves space and looks impressive.

By the way, most tables are just designed for a company, but those that are for two are not well suited even for individual serving - the boards on which meat are taken out hardly fit here.
Of course, the menu includes not only steaks, the rest of the dishes - salads, snacks, soups, freshly baked bread - are also very interesting. For example, the fact that in classic recipe there is certainly a local touch - Estonian seasonal ingredients.

Restaurant bill:
Seasonal salad with olive oil (salad mix, nice juicy melon balls, tomatoes, cucumber, radish, pumpkin seeds, pomegranate, a little balsamic) - 5 euro
Grilled shrimps and gazpacho - 9 euro
Grass-fed Estonian meat steak - 18 euro
Duck confit with pumpkin cream - 9.5 euro

Find a good place to eat in Tartu can suddenly turn into a rather difficult task. Quite a large part of the population of Tartu are students of local universities who prefer to spend money on beer rather than on good food, so it can be said that there are not so many expensive luxury restaurants in Tartu, if not few. But in Tartu there are many cozy cafes, eateries that stay open late, little quirky restaurants, sushi bars, and the like. Tartu is generally quite a romantic town, so it is worth "trying" it in full, along with its wonderful cafes.

And for those tourists who come to Tartu with a small amount of money, here's a tip where to go for lunch or dinner.

Vilde Health Cafe(Vallikraavi 4)

This cafe is well known among the locals, who call this place “an island of tranquility”. This is a haven for all those who want to escape the madness of the center of a bustling city. The cafe menu is focused on healthy and fresh food. I write about each dish on the menu nutritional value and detailed composition- in short, we know what we eat. A great place to grab a bite to eat while staying healthy. There is also a small corner for children in the cafe and a menu for children (also very healthy). The cafe is quite cozy and spacious. Try a magna smoothie at this restaurant.

Schedule: Mon-Fri: 09: 00-19: 00, Sat: 10: 00-16: 00

Opera Pizza(Vanemuise 26)

To find this café, you need to walk past the Vanemuine Theater and the University Library. The café offers an undeniably impressive number of dishes and pizza options (order a slice of different pizzas to try more), most of which cost between 3-5 euros. This is a good place to get away from the hustle and bustle and relax after sightseeing. Someone calls this restaurant the best pizzeria in the city.

Schedule: Fri-Sat: from 11:00 to 22:00, Mon-Thu: from 11:00 to 21:00, Sun: from 11:00 to 21:00

Metro(Raatuse 18)

This is one of the best and most inexpensive dishes where you can eat meat from the belly. The options are very diverse. Sandwiches with vegetables and sauces are available. Locals claim that the sandwiches at this restaurant will be the magic cure for a nasty hangover after visiting local clubs and bars. The fact that the restaurant is just a short walk from the Kaarsild Bridge and that this place is almost always open makes Metro the perfect spot for a quick bite. You can often find big noisy companies here. The cafe is a bit like Subway, just a little simpler. And the prices are slightly lower.

Schedule: Sun: 09: 00-11: 00, Sat: 09: 00-05: 00, Thu-Fri: 08: 30-05: 00, Mon-Fri: 08: 30-23: 00

Krooks(Jakobi 34)

This is one of the city's pubs that has stood the test of time. This cafe has many fans and regular customers who are used to dining here deliciously and cheaply. They say they make the best burger in town. By the way, if you look at the menu on the restaurant's website, then keep in mind that in reality the menu is much poorer. But all the same, everything is delicious! The pub is conveniently located on the edge of the city center, and it is convenient for people from all areas to come here. In the cafe you can see many families and rock and roll fans watching music concerts and sporting events on the big screens. By the way, concerts of live music and karaoke nights are definitely popular here.

Schedule: Mon-Sun: 11: 00-04: 30

Pagari pood(Raekoja plats 12)

One of the best places in town for a bite to eat. Warm bread with a crispy crust with different fillings - the aromas in the cafe are divine! You can also choose from delicious bagels, rolls and rolls, salty sticks, cookies and pies. But the choice is not too large, nevertheless. Prices for some products are very pleasantly low, while for others they are rather high, which is strange. Try the apple strudel here! The place is located here on the corner of the Town Hall Square. At the bakery you can order fragrant buns for takeaway breakfast. Forget the extra pounds and indulge yourself in this cafe, you deserve it. And, as far as I know, you still can't pay with a card in a cafe, so stock up on cash.

Schedule: Mon-Fri: 09: 00-17: 00

Kohvipaus(Rüütli 8)

To find this café, just follow the trickle of fresh pastries and coffee in Rüütli Street. The café-shop offers a selection of healthy food that ranges from delicious sandwiches, to rolls and salads. Here you can also try the traditional Estonian dish kama - a mixture of fried grains of rye, oats, barley, peas, beans, which are mixed with fresh milk, yogurt, yogurt, cream, or eaten with salt, honey, and you get an appetizer or a sweet independent dish... Coming back from the cafe, we can say that this is the perfect place for a cup of coffee and a quick snack. You can sit inside the cafe or sit on the outdoor terrace if the weather is sunny. By the way, to try the freshest buns for breakfast, it is better to come early. And be sure to try the cupcakes - big and flavorful! It is also worth trying pasta, ham salads, lattes and chocolate cakes. Prices are super-low.

Schedule: Sat: 10: 00-18: 00, Mon-Fri: 07: 00-19: 00

Lokaal Pirogov(Rüütli 2)

This is a great place both for a cup of coffee in the afternoon and for a hearty lunch. In addition, good music always sounds in the cafe: interesting, pleasant and not too loud, so you can easily keep a conversation with your friends. The service in the cafe is also, by the way, at the highest level! The cafe also offers hearty and relatively cheap soups, some traditional Hungarian, the best thing for a tourist in need of something to eat! And in this restaurant you can order inexpensive beer and wine, as well as a wide selection of others. alcoholic beverages(including at least three varieties of Pálinkás, a drink that can not be tasted in every café in Estonia. By the way, palinka is a Hungarian fruit brandy made from grapes, pears, apricots, plums, apples). Try delicious pies in this cafe!

Schedule: Sun: 17: 00-01: 00, Sat: 17: 00-04: 00, Fri: 11: 00-04: 00, Wed-Thu: 11: 00-03: 00, Tue: 11: 00-02: 00, Mon: 11: 00-01: 00