Latvian beer: Cesu alus and others. Beer in Riga - Silva Rerum Starowilenskie - LiveJournal Beer restaurants in Riga old town

One of the most important aspects of information when traveling to a new city is the location of places with the most delicious and preferably inexpensive food, pleasant drink, preferably in a stylish and authentic setting.
We found several places of this kind in Riga, and we will talk about them now. Moreover, all the other sights have already been described in the smallest detail (links to previous parts at the end of this essay).

The most famous restaurant of national cuisine is, perhaps, network "Lido".

The network has nothing to do with Venice, the lions or the film festival. These are quick service points that are scattered throughout the city.

You come in, choose the dishes you like, the chef, as if in a dining room, puts the chosen on the plates, offers a side dish, you take it, go on, picking up various additives, salads and compote along the way.

Inexpensive, expressive and tasty.

And behind the counter, there is their own brewed beer, both light and dark. The cost is about 2 euros for half a liter. Here you can also take yourself a variety of alcoholic cocktails, mulled wine and, of course, Riga balsam.

Well, at the end of the evening (or the time of day at which you find yourself here), you can indulge in coffee and cake in order to enjoy the full range of this beautiful place to the end.

From the inconvenient, perhaps, a separate payment directly when purchasing food and drinks. From the pros - the nationality of the institution and the pricing policy.

Latvian cuisine is basically simple and healthy peasant food. Pies with bacon or smoked fish. Cheese biscuits (of course, with caraway seeds, a favorite Latvian spice), peas with kefir, beer soup, bubert (semolina porridge) baked with whipped proteins. The most, perhaps, the Nailatysh dish is putra - something like porridge with cottage cheese and yogurt, as well as with mashed potatoes and boiled fish passed through a meat grinder. All this must also stand in a cold place to "ripen". Not everyone likes it.

Next to the "Lido", located right a stone's throw from the Dome Square in the Old Town, there is a magnificent S. Brevinga bar with a cloud of craft beer and even more vast expanses of types of whiskey.

Perhaps I have never seen so much whiskey in one place before. Everything is there. Irish, Scottish, American, Japanese, hell-knows-who's, singles, blends, bourbons, helmets and whatever happens there. The prices for beer here are from 2.20 to 3.75, and the cost of stronger drinks is from the counter to infinity.

By the way, they say that in the next room there is a store of the same Brevinga, from where you can bring the purchased bottles and drink, sitting on the counter. We never visited the store, but after one evening spent here the next day we also could not stand it and returned here again.

A pleasant young bartender, having learned from us about the obscene cost of alcohol in Israeli pubs, said that his legs would not be in this state, despite all its attractiveness. The Riga bartender finally confirmed such a tough decision, giving his last name: Schneiderman.

If you walk two more steps and turn around the corner, you find yourself on the narrowest street in Riga - Rosen Street. Its width is only 1 meter 80 centimeters. It is here that the magnificent restaurant "Rozengrals" is located in the medieval style.

In ancient times, there were wine warehouses of the Riga City Council on the site of the present restaurant. The oldest mention of the warehouses dates back to 1334 (although another date flaunts on the wooden doors of the tavern - 1293).

The wine cellar, in the premises of which the "Rozengrals" was located, used to have three entrances and several underground passages that led to the cellars of the nearest houses.

The underground passages under the street still exist, and you can walk along them, immersing yourself even more in the medieval atmosphere.

And if you go outside and smoke, the knights present in the restaurant will tell you many more interesting stories.

There is a legend about how two ladies in wide dresses, in crinolines, collided on this very Rosen street and argued who should give way to whom. They never came to an agreement. And it seems that if you excavate the 17th century pavement, you can still see these ladies who still cannot disperse and argue, and at the same time no one wants to give in.

As I already said, it is worth getting out of the Old City. An additional reason to do this will be a visit to the best beer bar in Riga, ALEhouse Brewpub, which has now changed its name to the more common Bierhaus.

With its own brewery, which produces 7 types of delicious beer, although not cheap (prices are around 3.50 euros for half a liter), with a beautiful interior, delicious snacks and pleasant staff.

You can save a little by ordering beer for a promotion (with us, there were a couple of varieties for 1.75 for half a liter or several types of bottle 2 + 1).

It is said that the restaurant, which first opened its doors in 2012, hosts huge festivals from time to time, to which all Latvian breweries flock and provide a selection of more than 150 varieties.

Beer (or in the local alus) is generally brewed in Latvia with skill and sincere pleasure, apparently since the days of the arrival of German knightly monks. So, it's a pleasure to drink it here.

But the old recipe of the world-famous (or, at least, all-Soviet) famous and popular Riga balsam, which was used to treat Catherine II and which Goethe called "the elixir of youth", alas, has long been lost. At the factory restored after the war, balm was poured, created from the memory of one of the factory workers in the 1920s. So, having tried this drink once, we somehow tried to ignore it further.

The fish restaurant Zvejnieka dēls ("The Son of a Fisherman"), located in the Old Town, I will not promote.

I’ll just hint at what brought us here due to the fact that we simply could not consume more meat, but it was still necessary to have something to eat. We spent a couple of hours there with sooooooooooooopay mess message paid service? Between meals, I even went out into the street to smoke, because I was no longer able to wait, sitting still. Well, the statement at the entrance "Latvian cuisine" also does not correspond to reality - ordinary fish with ordinary salads from sea reptiles. Such goodness is full in any part of the world.

The prices in this institution were absolutely not pleasing with their democratic character and, having tasted soup, fish and shrimp-mussel salad, washed down with a glass of wine, we left about 60 euros there and left this institution so as not to come back here again.

It would be better if we went to a cool and very ponty restaurant 1221. There, at least for the same inflated price tag, you can get a much more varied menu, from blood sausage with barley to game, beavers or venison dumplings and marinated foie gras in truffle oil with cranberry sauce. By the way, the white wagtail was declared the national animal of Latvia back in 1960, and not the trout or the oyster. And Latvians consider camomile as a national plant, and linden and oak as a tree.

But the most important place with a simply immense scope of all kinds of products, of course, is the central grocery market in Riga, a place where you can buy everything - from smoked caviar to a live elephant.

This Riga attraction is located not far from the railway station. The residents of Riga themselves call their market the "belly" of the city. Several huge pavilions were built for him at one time (into which the German hangars for airships were transformed), but the most lasting impression is, of course, the farthest, fish pavilion.

Going under its semicircular span, you immediately get a shock from the smells and gastronomic splendor.

Hot and cold smoked mackerel, sea bass with delicate pinkish skin, long black eels and lampreys ...

..dried bream and flounder, salmon bellies, dried and fresh red caviar ...

..the tentacles of octopuses, numerous types of herring and herring.

The rest of the pavilions try to keep up with the fish pavilions - hemp oil, pigs, honey, whitewash, draft kvass. Kvass, by the way, is just awesome, it is located at the exit from the fish pavilion, and I advise you to take at least 2 liters. For one liter is drunk immediately, without leaving the building and in one breath.

There are places on the market that a common visitor will never guess about. For example, laboratories are located in the meat pavilion, where quality control of dairy and meat products is carried out on the spot. And next to it, in a small room, there is a small Catholic chapel and a prayer corner for Orthodox Christians, where market workers can consult with the Almighty (we didn’t go there because we didn’t need it).

The dairy pavilion in 1952 was completely freed from traders, since a huge 9-meter monument to Stalin was being created there. Nowadays, there are even fascinating excursions around the Riga market, where, as it turned out, you can walk through the underground tunnels of the market, stretching for hundreds of meters.

The market even has its own coin, which can be purchased for 2 euros from the coin machine installed in the vegetable pavilion. And between the shopping malls outside the semicircular pavilions, inconspicuous people in gray walk and in a half-whisper offer contraband goods "to whom cigarettes? To whom cigarettes?" With what filler they offer this contraband product, we did not ask.

Interestingly, beavers are rumored to have been spotted in the canal near the market and surrounding the Old Town in recent years. But despite the fact that the animals, preparing for winter, gnaw the trees surrounding the canal every autumn, the inhabitants of Riga are quite calm about their appearance in the very center of the capital. As the invited beavers say, since there are animals in the canal, and even more so beavers, it means that the water in it is clean. This is a good sign.

It is also impossible to visit Riga and not buy the cult Soviet perfume "Dzintars", which have experienced a European renaissance in recent years (French perfumers have invested in the business). We did it right next to the market at the railway station, among many small and large shops. Here you can take "Riga Lilac" or "Vecriga" for mom, cologne "Ligo" with oak leaves for dad, or new perfume "Jurmala" for a girl. There is also a sea of ​​other souvenir shops nearby, in one of which a native flag was seen.

And in a nearby store it is worth buying a couple of bags of "Korovka" sweets, famous throughout the USSR, currently produced with dozens of flavors and fillings. Well, for those who have a lot of money, Latvia is famous for one more product. Amber.

But it's expensive.

The supermarket in the mall by the train station has an unusually rich selection of excellent craft beer and whiskey.

By the way, in Israel, I specially went through the bottles of various local breweries that sell their beer, and almost nowhere and no one indicates the type of spilled drink. What the fuck is ale? What IPA? At best it is written "dark", "light" or "unfiltered".

Dozens, and maybe even hundreds of sorts of beer and whiskey at absolutely ridiculous prices coexist with various types of "Riga Balsam", local berry liqueurs and French cognacs.

Well, I would also like to advise, having escaped the boundaries of Old Riga, visit one of the charming Riga pastry shops, where you can hardly choose a cake, because you want to eat everything at once. Take a cup of excellent coffee and spend at least half an hour in such a place.

Enjoyment of taste and smell is guaranteed.

I can't recommend anything specific, but the coffee shop at Matīsa iela 22 that we visited was just gorgeous.

Of the unvisited places, it is worth mentioning the high-rise establishment "Klondaika", located directly opposite our hotel, which amazed not even with the interior or contents, but with its apparently regular customers.

In a club with lecherous women and slot machines, people on weekends have fun until the morning, and then creep home, barely keeping up, which can be seen from the hotel window. At times, those who like to hum until the morning do not stay on their feet at all, urinate right at the door or start funny fights on the paving stones at the door of the institution. In some cases, fights end with a call to the police, and only then the brawlers calm down. This is exactly what happened on Sunday morning before our eyes, when, before the cops arrived, a sweet girl Alice from the reception of our hotel brought to her senses a beaten and little thinking client of the aforementioned club lying on stones.

For lovers of glamor and show-off, curiosity can be awakened by the multi-brand Plaza store, in the very center of the city at Cungu, 25, where you can buy a dress or gloves with diamonds from Dolce Gabana, Balenciaga leather pants, angora sweater from Saint Laurent, clothes from Christian Dior, Gucci , Valentino, Roberto Covalli, and, of course, red-bottom Louboutins. Not cheap.

Of the overlooked, which is even a pity, I will say that we, alas, did not go (apparently left for the next time) in the Leningrad cafe on Kaleyu street, the sea restaurant Gastronome at 31 Brivibas, and in the cafe famous since Soviet times " 13 chairs ", located on Dome Square, which is rumored to be the best, and at the same time very inexpensive, coffee in the city and where, they say, there are exactly 13 seats.

And finally, I will mention a place that has nothing to do with our adventure, which I would like to descend on the next time I find myself in the Latvian capital. It opened in the city a couple of years ago not far from the Domina shopping center and is called the "Terrible entertainment complex". Extremals who come here are divided into small groups and sent on a journey through eerie, unpredictable dungeons. During the walk, physical contact with skeletons, orcs, vampires and other pleasant otherworldly characters is possible. It is forbidden to illuminate your path with a flashlight or phone, as well as take pictures. The organizers state that during the passage there is the possibility of undergoing hysteria, seizures, seizures, increased nervousness, depression, epilepsy, claustrophobia or other other phobias. But we are no strangers, we are already through this somehow. Well, or, to be honest, partially passed. The cost of your own heart attack in Riga is 14 euros on weekdays or 20 on weekends. The entertainment lasts about an hour.

On this, perhaps, I will end my story about the January trip to Riga. For those who want to learn more about the Latvian capital, its legends, stories, interesting places and people, I would recommend a wonderful forum: http://forum.myriga.info/

Well, a brief summary of my Riga opus:

Bye-bye, Riga! Perhaps we'll be back.

The most frequent question that one hears from tourists is: "What can you try?" I'll tell you point by point.

1. Piparkukas

Pepper cookies, loved by many in Latvia, are not only one of the symbols of the Christmas holidays in Latvia, but also remain on the table of almost every Latvian family all year round.

Cookies traditionally include black or allspice, cloves, ginger, cardamom and cinnamon. Fragrant and spicy, piparkukas can be found in any store in the country in the form of cute round suns or curly cookies in the shape of stars, hearts, Christmas trees and little men.

Large curly gingerbread cookies decorated with multicolored sugar icing are very popular, especially among children.

2. Gray peas

Gray peas are perhaps the first dish associated with Latvian national cuisine. This authentic food is also traditional for Christmas, but you can taste it at any other time of the year.

A special - brownish-gray - pea variety is grown only in Latvia. The recipe for its preparation is simple and ingenious: peas are boiled in water, and then mixed with fried bacon, the remaining fat and onions.

Gray peas are served in clay pots with sour cream or kefir.

3. Black balm

We have already written about this national landmark in the review "".

According to the legend, it was created in the 18th century either by a city blacksmith or by a pharmacist Abram Kunz. They even say that with his healing potion he treated Catherine II for stomach colic.

The balm, poured into authentic clay jugs, has a unique bitter taste and rich aroma and just goes well for use, both in pure form and in a company with hot drinks, especially coffee.

In Latvia, it is customary to mix it with warm blackcurrant juice - you cannot think of a better way to warm up and recuperate at the first sign of a cold.

The recipe for Riga Balsam is kept a stricter secret than Coca-Cola, but the people of Riga know that the drink contains St. John's wort, lemon balm, mint, ginger, wormwood, birch buds and about 20 other components.

4. Lamprey

Lamprey is a river fish that vaguely resembles an eel. Latvian peasants catch it in the clear waters of Latvian rivers and smoke it. Smoked lamprey is a unique but exquisite delicacy that is served as a cold snack in many restaurants of national cuisine.

You can find smoked lampreys in the Central Market in Riga and in the fish departments of Latvian supermarkets. However, connoisseurs are not lazy to go for smoked lampreys to the town of Carnikava, 40 km from Riga, where local fishermen prepare this delicious fish according to special local recipes.

Every third Saturday in August, fishermen and farmers in Carnikava celebrate Lamprey Day, which marks the beginning of the fishing season.

5. Cottage cheese with herring and potatoes

No matter how incongruous this set of ingredients may seem, together they add up to a dish beloved by Latvians.

There are a lot of variations of this food - from a simple worker-peasant snack to a refined gastronomic masterpiece. With herbs or spices, with pickled herring or salted, in oil or sauce, with hot or cold potatoes - choose whichever is closer to you.

Here you will find in a balanced form proteins, fats and carbohydrates, and at the same time immersion in the national culture and cuisine.

6. Bread soup

Bread soup, perhaps, ranks first among Latvian desserts. It is made from ground rye bread, which is mixed with sugar, cinnamon, raisins, dried apricots and other dried fruits. This mass is served in bowls and generously flavored with whipped cream.

You will find bread soup in almost every Latvian cafe, and if you wish, you can buy a mixture for preparing this delicacy in a grocery store and then pamper your household. It tastes better with homemade cream!

7. Vecriga

Another dessert strongly associated with the image of Riga. Translated into Russian, the name of this cake means "Old Riga", by the way, it was here that people from all over the city used to go for it.

Vecriga is a round choux pastry profiterole stuffed with soft curd cream and powdered sugar. Such is the traditional Riga eclair.

A classic among those who like to sit in cozy cafes of the city is a set of a cup of hot coffee, a small glass of Black Balsam, and a vintage.

Such a set is served in cafes at, as well as in other cafes in Riga and Latvia.

8. Roy delicacy

One of the most popular fish dishes in Latvia, originally from the fishing village of Roja, is not easy to find today. The Roja delicacy appeared in the 70s of the XX century, when Roja was one of the largest fish processors in Soviet Latvia.

According to the original recipe for this dish, mackerel or horse mackerel is smoked at a temperature of about 30 degrees for a day, and sometimes longer, and then seasoned with spices and dried garlic.

Unfortunately, the days of Roya's former glory are over, and the few fishermen reluctantly associate with such a long-term technology of producing the delicacy. However, do not be discouraged: if you are not lucky enough to find a real Roy delicacy, feel free to take hot smoked mackerel.

Sprinkled with herbs and spices and covered with a layer of melted cheese, this fish is just as good!

9. Berry wines

Nature has deprived Latvia of sunny days, and therefore grapes, so loving warmth and sunshine, do not ripen in Latvian latitudes. But the forests and farms of the country are rich in all kinds of berries, from which a wonderful, aromatic wine is obtained.

Strawberries, raspberries, cherries, currants, chokeberry (blackberry), quince (northern quince), cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries, blackberries, rhubarb and even dandelions together and separately create excellent bouquets of flavors that are so rich in berry wines in Latvia.

They are consumed not only in a traditional, chilled form, but also make excellent hot and heady drinks from wine with the addition of sugar, fruits and spices.

While walking around the Christmas markets in Riga during the winter holidays, treat yourself to a glass of hot berry wine!

10. Cydonia

The fruit of this typical Latvian plant is good not only in the composition of wine. Cydonia is canned, jam is made from it, syrups and aromatic oils are made, and even edible amber is prepared!

This fruit has many names - northern quince, Japanese quince or chaenomelis, while Latvians call it Latvian lemon. Indeed, the fruits of quince are rich in vitamin C and other microelements, which makes it not only tasty, but also very useful.

Every Latvian gardener has several quince bushes, so that on chilly winter days you can pamper yourself with a mug of hot tea with aromatic quince syrup.

11. Latvian cheese

Here we mean not all the Latvian cheese as a whole, but its separate sort, which is called "Latvian". This semi-hard type of cheese has a soft spongy texture and an unimaginably pungent odor. Someone even compares the aroma of Latvian cheese to three weeks of unwashed footcloths.

The taste of this cheese is also very spicy, spicy and full-bodied, capable of giving odds to any French Roquefort. It is simply impossible to confuse it with another cheese. Latvian cheese is eaten with pasta, used in aromatic sauces, or simply put on a sandwich.

True, it will be difficult to take this cheese out of Latvia - its smell seeps even through vacuum packaging and quickly spreads through the suitcase, luggage compartment and the entire cabin of an airplane or train.

12. Beer

This frothy drink is, of course, nothing special. Beer is brewed in Germany, Belgium, the Czech Republic and even Japan, however, Latvian beer is worth a separate mention.

Beer is brewed in Latvia, both by large factories such as Aldaris, Cēsu or Bauskas, as well as many small breweries that use all their love for craft and traditions to prepare a truly wonderful drink.

In every town and every bar you will find something of your own, special and delicious!

13. Rye (black) bread

Latvian black bread, together with cheese, balsam and sprats, has always been the main gastronomic souvenir that was brought from Latvia to friends and relatives abroad.

Latvian products, age-old traditions and the skills of local bakers have formed a single whole in black bread, which is sold in abundance in shops and bakeries in the country. Especially delicious is the bread made with love by small bakeries that respect ecology, historical recipes and craft secrets.

Cooked with sourdough, as in the old days, with seeds and dried fruits, Latvian sweet and sour bread is rightfully considered one of the main delicacies of the country.

14. Pudding with cranberry jelly

Rice, semolina or oatmeal pudding (and sometimes just pasta casserole) plentifully drizzled with sour cranberry jelly adjoins on the pedestal of popularity next to bread soup and vetsriga.

Once upon a time, pudding with jelly was included in the standard set of dishes in factory canteens, they were fed to children in kindergartens and schools and patients of city hospitals.

This dish is so firmly entrenched in the diet of the inhabitants of Latvia that today it is absolutely impossible to imagine a business lunch without a traditional jelly dessert.

15. Cranberries in sugar

This sweetness (or sourness?) Is still extremely popular among Latvian gourmets. Large and juicy, cranberries grow in abundance in the bogs of the country, and therefore Latvians do not experience a shortage of this product.

However, if you want to taste a truly Latvian delicacy, you should go to the town of Sigulda, where among the souvenirs and handicraft products you can find ecologically clean cranberries prepared in accordance with all the postulates of Ayurveda on the basis of ghee ghee.

Along with this cranberry, you will probably want to take with you a package of homemade oatmeal cookies baked in butter or a waffle tube with boiled condensed milk.

It is necessary to post a review of local attractions for the beer tourist as well. We have all heard the phrase "Riga beer" since childhood. It does not matter that the first experience of consuming the so-called. "Riga" from the local brewery had little in common in its taste with real Riga beer. Nevertheless, "Rizhskoe" is a certain well-established brand. And Latvia, without a mug of traditional dark beer, seems to be somewhat incomplete. Indeed, in culinary terms, the three main Latvian brands are cheese, rye bread and beer (all sorts of Riga balsams and Laima sweets are from a slightly different opera). This year even a 1 lat coin was issued with a mug of foamy beer on the obverse! So beer is for Latvia, what lard is for Ukraine;)

Unfortunately, due to lack of time, we managed to try not everything and visit not all places. But for those who travel to Riga for a day, or will be passing through these recommendations, I hope, it will be enough :) So, let's start with the most famous Latvian brewery - Aldaris... Of the heap of Riga breweries that operated in the late 19th - early 20th centuries, Aldaris is the only brewery in the city that survived 2 wars and is still operating. Now the brewery is part of the Carlsberg group and produces beer under the Aldaris and Zelta brands. I did not go to the factory itself, so I will leave enthusiastic responses about visiting the legendary brewery with antique equipment to others. As for beer, most of Aldaris sorts can be found everywhere in the city, both in cafes and shops (Rimi, Maxima chains). In order not to look for a long time, you can buy a beer from the Riga brewery (as well as beer from all major producers in the country) in the Stockmann department store near the bus and railway stations. But about Stockmann a little later.

In general, the products of the Riga plant have something in common with those in Estonia, Lithuania, Poland and Belarus, with some reservations. There are colored varieties: "red", "black" (Zelta Ruby, Zelta Black). The name of the premium grade "Legenda 1865" (déjà vu, no other way!) Smiled very much. Not so long ago, we started to produce a “semi-antique” line (Dūmaku, Muižnieku, Kviešu). I just tried the latter (see the photo above). What can I say: for a traditional (?) Wheat beer, this beer is TOO citrusy, you might even think that it was sprinkled with lemon. In general, not quite a classic version of Weizen, to put it mildly. What really cannot be bypassed in Aldaris products is Porteris - one of the two Baltic porters in Latvia (the second is brewed seasonally by Cēsu alus). It is a pity that he is not taken to us (unlike).

There is also such a small brewery in Riga as SIA Brūveris, which also produces wheat beer. But, unfortunately, until now I have not been able to get acquainted with its products, therefore there is nothing to write about yet :)) The only thing I can advise is the restaurant Alus arsenāls(Pils laukums 4). Beer brewed by SIA Brūveris is served there under its own name.

But the third, better known by the name of the Belarusian brewery is LIDO... More likely a brewpub. And the only one (!) In Latvia. LIDO produces three varieties: LIDO Gaišais (light, alc. 4.2%), LIDO Speciālais (special, alc. 4.5%), LIDO Medalus (honey, alc. 4.5%). In general, a good beer, but there is nothing outstanding in it either. By the way, the LIDO network also sells its beer to take away. If you really want to try their beer, you don't have to go from the old town to their entertainment complex. There are also restaurants of the chain in the center. For example, there is a bistro right next to Dome Square Alus Sēta(Tirgoņu 6). It is very convenient, especially since the rest of the beer "points" and the sights of the city are very close.

There are tons of bars and restaurants in Riga, and you can taste local beer almost everywhere. But if you find yourself in Riga during the warm season, then it is best to occupy summer cafes and terraces. In my opinion the best of these "beer gardens" (for location and selection of local beers) is No Problem(lat. Nekadu Problemu), located in the middle of the Dome Square. Among other things, local and foreign beer is served there: Madonas, Tērvete, Užavas. The last two manufacturers are particularly interesting. Tervete for many years it has consistently maintained a fairly constant quality with its Originalais variety (light lager, alc. 5.4%) and is worth trying at least once. In the same time, Užavas Alus produces quite good unfiltered lager on tap: both light (alc. 4.6%) and dark (alc. 4.9%). Many people will love this beer.

But the most important thing for which I initially went to this summer cafe is the products of the mini-brewery Valmiermuiža... This small brewery in northern Latvia brews only two varieties in regular and unfiltered versions - light (Hell / Viennese lager, alc. 5.2%) and dark (alc. 5.8%). A beer with a rather rich taste, pleasant aroma, color and performance. This beer (at least light) is a must for tasting in Riga :)) Valmiermuiža also has a brand shop / cafe outside the historic center: Valmiermuižas alus tirgotava(A.Briāna iela, 9). From there, you can take with you bottled versions of this beer.

If we talk about Latvian mini-bars, then there is also a relatively inexpensive pub in Riga. Brālis(Tērbatas 101), where you can drink the varieties of the brewery of the same name. But if you are too lazy to go to a branded pub, you can find places closer to the center. For example, Brālis is served in a tavern Taverna pie sena dzintara cela(Tornu iela 4) near the old barracks. The atmosphere of the Ostsee tavern with unpretentious, but hearty and tantalizing food makes up for the local beer monotony.

For those who are tired of local beer and flavor, there is a more sophisticated establishment dedicated to Belgian cuisine and Belgian brewing - Bon vivant(“Belgian Beer Café”, Mārstaļu 8). There are Trappist ales from at least 4 monasteries, the legendary Kwak beer, gourmet Deus, Flemish red ales, strong ales, berry lambics. In general, there will be something to sit on. Sometimes "non-standard" varieties appear, such as the Hoegaarden Rosee or Winter Koninck. While sipping a Flemish chop and sipping a beer, it is amusing to look at the beer paraphernalia and old photographs lavishly decorating the walls.

For those looking for a British ambiance, irish and sports pubs, head to one of the many pubs. There is nothing British in them except in the atmosphere, in beer there is an international hodgepodge, the share of British or Irish in which is scanty. In recent years, however, a trend towards expansion of the beer range can be noted. So, for example, in Moloney "s Pub(Vāgnera 3, menu) there are now trappists from Chimay and Westmalle as well as British ales like Bishops Finger. Both the ubiquitous Guinness and the Jamaican Red Stripe lager. These essentially "average" pubs are the perfect place for an afternoon snack between beer openings in more suitable locations. In the old town, you will surely stumble upon Donegan's Pub(Laipu 2/4), Queen's Pub(Kaļķu iela 2, menu, there is a draft Boddington's), Paddy Whelan "s(Grēcinieku iela 4, menu). There is a little more on the outskirts Bombardier Bar(Lāčplēša iela 35) and Merlin alus restorerans(Maskvas iela 4, in the "Spīķeri" quarter, menu)

And finally, the MOST DELICIOUS! Those who want to drink and take away a lot of different things, rare and tasty, need to go to these three places without fail:

1) S. Brevinga Alus un Viskija Bārs(Tirgoņu 4) - a bar-cafe where they serve a bunch of different beers from Western Europe and a beer shop S. Brevinga Alus Salons... In the bar itself, you can order a draft and refresh yourself, in the craving for a bottle, I advise you to pretty much clean out the store. Fortunately, you can have a drink purchased in a store right here in the bar. For the choice of foreign beer, this shop is, if not the best, then certainly one of the best in the baltics. Good selection of Belgian varieties: Rochfort, Orval, Chimay, Westmalle, St. Bernardus, Delirium Tremens. Biere blanche, Kriek, Frambouise, Cassis, Geuze, Saison. England and Scotland are overwhelming! The entire "historic" line of non-standard ales from Williams Brothers (fraoch, kelpie, grozet, ebulum, alba), historical varieties under the Past Masters brand and vintage varieties from Fuller's (Vintage Ale, Brewer's Reserve). Varieties from Belhaven, Meantime, Green King, Youngs. German Bockbier, Rauchbier and Szwarzbier. Before my arrival, even Eisbock appeared there. Experimenters and "gypsy brewers" De Molen, Mikkeller and of course "punks" Brewdog! It is almost impossible to leave without a valuable catch, unless, of course, you are the one who loves money more than beer;)) Here is one of my souvenirs from my first trip to Riga:

Want to play a prank on someone? Blindfold the person, pour the contents into a wine glass and ask what it is. The answer will be something like this - semi-sweet "Soviet Champagne" :))

2) In addition to the historic center, S. Brevinga Alus Salons there is also near the station (Dzirnavu 84, in the Berga bazārs complex). And it is more profitable to go there right away. Firstly, the prices for beer there are lower, and secondly, the assortment is even more impressive! The lines of such iconic breweries as BrewDog, Mikkeller and De Molen are much wider, including the calloration brews of the aforementioned brewers with other worthy representatives of this profession. Moreover, the assortment of the store is constantly being updated. Agree, it's interesting to try beer with an alcohol of 18%, or barley wine made from buckwheat, or wheat IPA, or, finally, such a takeaway like Deconstructed Blonde Imperial Stout. Yes, there are not many places for tasting (3 tables), so it is better to plan your visit in such a way when the local people are not particularly inclined to rest;)

3) The latest creation of the owners of the above two establishments - Alehouse(Lāčplēša iela 12). After Bon Vivant, this is the second establishment with a narrow beer focus, but not a narrow assortment. American craft brewing reigns here. Our closest neighbors have this unique establishment of its kind. And, I must confess, in the far abroad, I have met a similar pub so far only in Amsterdam. Here, as well as in S. Brevinga Alus Salons, you can either buy a beer with you or drink it on the spot, accompanied by American dishes (mostly savory). The assortment includes such breweries as Lost Abbey, Left Hand, Jolly Pumpkin, Founder "s, 8 wired, Hoppin" Frog ... But what is there to list, you have to look at such beauty yourself:

I was lucky to try a wonderful product of collaboration of three great breweries there - For Awesome (imperial amber ale, alc. 9%). Brewed in New Zealand by brewers from Nogne (Norway), 8 wired and Renaissance (both New Zealand), this beer lives up to its name, damn it! Essentially the fruit of a combination of the flagship beers of each of the breweries (Stonecutter Scotch Ale, Hopwired IPA and Batch # 100), I associate this beer with the word "warm" in every sense. Drinking, with a rich aromatic mix of raisins, meadow grass and fruits, velvety-soft, enveloping like a blanket with warmth, it can be that sort, looking at which a person experiences emotions usually commented on "home sweet home".

But ALEhouse is not only a supplier of imports, albeit an exclusive one. Another highlight of this establishment is that it has a specialty beer. Gordon VanHoutan, the man at the origin of ALEhouse and a part-time brewer, brewed a couple of his own beers for his beloved establishment at the famous Dutch craft brewery De Molen. Here are the varieties available:

ALEhouse Bitter Poet (alc. 4.5%) is a bitter with a very noticeable aroma. Thanks to American hops, although it was not originally Americanized, only British hops and malt were used for this beer.

ALEhouse Black Sheep (alc. 6%) - "American stout", as the manufacturer claims. Well, burntness, shades of coffee and chocolate in the aroma, as expected, are present, giving way to dryness, interspersed with bitterness and some sourness in the finale.

Probably, those advantages for these three establishments that I have listed above would be quite enough. But when the pub is run by people in love with beer, this is not enough for them. On the basis of the ALEhouse restaurant, meetings of home brewers periodically take place, and in January 2013 the one-day tasting festival "MELNĀ ZIEMA" was held, where the products of local breweries and home brewers were presented.

At the end, it's worth mentioning the department store. "Stockmann" as a pro tourist assistant. If you are passing through Riga, there is absolutely no time to go "to the city", but you want to "hook" on beer, then you just go there. Located between two train stations, this department store also has a grocery section that has a bunch of different local varieties as well as some imports. In terms of imports, it still loses to its Tallinn counterpart, but there are also some highlights. For example, I came across a witbier there based on lambic from Timmermans. So there is a chance of catching;)

P.S. And finally, a picture from a non-beer, but very atmospheric Riga restaurant (name on the menu;)):


Last update - 03/12/2013

Returned from Latvia. Not for long. The day after tomorrow, again, an evil fate carries me abroad. Now to Cyprus. While at home, a few words about the beer drunk in Latvia. The purpose of the trip was not a beer at all, so I'll just tell you about what I got into my hands. I know that there are very good places in Riga with a good selection, etc. etc., but this time I did not go to them (for good reasons), but limited myself to an assortment of several bars and ordinary shops. What you see in the first photo, of course, is not craft, this is Lielvārdes Kviešu from Lāčplēsis. Clean, straight, not interesting. There is no point in dwelling on it.

And so, there is craft beer. Given the size of Riga, it is affordable. It is found in addition to specialized and in ordinary cafes, bars, shops. But the quality ... Everything is much worse here.

The well-known Stockmann store near the train station. Small selection but available, including BrewDog. Took Lithuanian and local.

Double kaputt(Lithuania, Panevezys) - 5.7% alc. Indeed, kaput. Virtually no gas. Mash taste reminiscent of the experiences of a novice homebrewer. A little dried fruit and that's it. I couldn't drink. Poured it out. Grade "D" The beginning is not very fun.

BardaIPA(Latvia, Riga) - 5.5% alc. A bit better. The aroma is good. This is what the Life-giving Mosaic does! On the "sneaker" I even put 3.75 at the beginning. Both the aroma and bitterness are pleasant, slightly fruity. But, as soon as the beer stood a little and breathed, some unpleasant sourness came up. By the end of the glass, it was no longer drunk. Grade "C +"

I tried another beer from this brewery at Beer House No. 1, it was a kind IBA... I did not understand the hint of the waiter, who offered to take 0.3 first and hit. At a price of 4 euros (!), It turned out to be rather disgusting, with a yeasty, brew taste of the same novice housekeepers with a hint of plum. Would rate it in "C-".

1905 Amber Ale(Latvia, Plyavinas) - 5.3% alc. Like red ale. Another homebrewer who hasn't made it past the pots. They poured everything into beautiful bottles and decided that they were now craft brewers. Although, why not? Who said craft beer has to be great. No. And here is just an example of disgusting craft beer with all the defects. Grade "D" Another 1.5 euros per pipe. I don't often pour out beer, but I did it too.

Festivāla Alus IPA(Latvia, Vangazi) - 5.3% alc. I never really liked Brālis, but this IPA (as indicated on the label, but listed as India Pale Lager in Untappd) is quite good. Citrus aroma. Soft, bready taste. A little pepper and pine needles in the aftertaste. After the previous shit, straight balm. Grade "B +"

And this was already drunk in the bar with Janis and Nils. More interesting.

5 Dienu IPA(Latvia, Riga) - 6.2% alc. Nice IPA from Aldaris. Mild, caramelly taste and at the same time a well-noticeable, but not protruding bitterness. Slightly spicy and drinkable. Grade "B +"

Pozitivus Alus(Latvia, Riga) - performance characteristics are not known. Brewed for the Pozitiv festival held at the Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs bar. Slightly worse than Aldaris. Felt a little diaceltile. The rest is good. Hops are moderate, soft and long in the aftertaste. Grade "B"

Cesu IPA(Latvia / Estonia, Cesis or) - 5% alc. It is written that Cesu, but they say it is brewed, or maybe not brewed, but only bottled in cans in Estonia at A. Le Coq. Andrey Malyshev posted on FB exactly the same bank, but only with the inscription A. Le Coq, and if you search on the Internet, then there is also Olvi IPA. It looks like they are all the same beer. Four American hops are listed. However, the scent is more of a perfumery. The taste is empty, but naturally free from defects. In the aftertaste, the bitterness is light (or someone might say weak), but there is. Drank two cans without disgust. Quite a refreshing thing. Massive. Not for snobs. Considering the price (less than Euro), quite a normal beer. IPA? Scientists argue. Grade "C +"

Cesu also sells Blond in a similar design. Here it is worth bypassing, because it is not Blond, but a regular liquid (Bud-style) lager. However, the manufacturer honestly points out that this is a lager. Why call Blond? ..

Back to Aldaris again.

Baltijas lagers(Latvia, Riga) - 5.6% alc. Despite the simple name, the lager is not bad at all. American style. I mean, American hops that are good in both aroma and aftertaste. A little citrus and a Christmas tree. Pitko and balanced. What else do you need for a good lager? Grade "B +"

Zaļā Bise(Latvia, Rauna) - 6.3% alc. Malduguns Brewery. Probably the nicest IPA of the Latvian minicas. Thick, with a light aroma of peaches and tropical fruits. Moderate bitterness, but noticeable. Despite 6.3% alc. nothing sticks out. Well done! Rating "A-"

Virsaitis(Latvia, Riga) - 6% alc. IPA from Labietis. Despite the fortress, it seems rather watery and empty. The body is clearly not enough. The bitterness is harsh and I would say spicy. Otherwise clean and ok. "B-"

(Latvia, Valmiera) - 5.5% alc. In Latvia, beer from Valmiermuižas alus is considered quite decent. On the whole, I agree. Another thing is that in the understanding of craft, they are more likely to stand on the step of good, high-quality regionals, without any special frills, although they have a fairly wide range. Dūmalus is a smoked beer. Claimed as dark smoked, but as you can see, the color is quite light. But, it's not that important. Smoked meat is not strong, rather smokiness, not smokiness. Dry. Nice caramel taste. A little bit of iron in the aftertaste spoils. The rest is good. "C +"

And now, the highlight of the program, although not of Latvian origin. It was drunk in a small pro-Belgian cafe.

Duvel Tripel Hop 2016(Belgium, Purs) - 9.5% alc. The sixth edition of Tripel Hop 2016 with HBC 291 hops. Light, soft, but noticeable floral, slightly herbal aroma. The taste is thick and slightly bready. The strength is manifested by a slight pungency in the aftertaste. Great beer, although the best in my opinion was on Evinox. Grade "A"