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Emmental is a Swiss cheese. Birth of a legend: Emmental cheese - Good things

January 14th, 2016

To visit Switzerland - in a country where cheese is so loved that it can be served as a main course, in a country where it is extremely difficult to find a restaurant where cheese is not served, in a country where there is a "cheese express", and cheese is also pampered in by plane - to visit there and not see how cheese is made, you must agree, is simply unforgivable!

Since I first visited Switzerland, I have only thought about it. And then, one fine day, I received a cherished letter with the words: "Natalie, pack your suitcase, let's go to cook Swiss cheese!"

Before continuing to tell you about my experience of making cheese, I want to return with you to Switzerland - a cheese factory in the Emmental Valley.

On this trip, the cheese "pursued" us everywhere. It all started with breakfast on board the Swiss airline, when we flew from Moscow to Zurich. There was cheese in every restaurant, wherever we looked, was present at all breakfasts in all hotels where we stayed. Then the cheese dairy. And even when we returned home, at dinner we were pleased with a small slice of Gruyere (and this is in economy class - SWISS Taste of Switzerland!).

(I was lucky to fly business class in my life a couple of times, and this was one of them - for breakfast a poached egg with sauce and ruddy potatoes, croissant, curd dessert and cheese)!

When you start making cheese yourself, it becomes much more interesting to observe the process in production.

Emmental cheese, or Emmentaler, is one of the most popular Swiss cheeses in our country. It is famous for its holes, soft sweetish and at the same time tart taste that cannot be confused with anything, viscous texture. It is from this cheese (often paired with gruyere) that the fondue is made. Cheese is made not far from Bern. And it has been brewed, by the way, for a long time: since the 13th century. They are brewed from the freshest milk from Alpine cows, which are fed with luscious Alpine grass and hay. By the way, the production of 1 kg of cheese requires about 10-12 liters.

For the production of aged cheese, rennet is essential. It is responsible for the curdling of milk and the texture of the cheese. But besides it, there is another important ingredient - the leaven, which contains the "good" bacteria. The bacteria create the right environment, help the cheese ripen and acquire the flavor we love so much.

It is ideal, of course, to come here, to Affoltern, in the summer, rent a house or apartment (don't rush anywhere, but devote a few days to the valley (judge for yourself - that's how it is here in summer!). You can take an e-bike and ride through the most beautiful places with a breeze , there similar excursions are also organized (I have already talked about similar ones.) However, with such an exemplary transport it is not difficult to get to the cheese village from Bern itself. If we have such in the villages!) - we are in Switzerland! And the stop is right where you need it - a stone's throw from the cheese dairy. -that is impossible to get - it means there is no need to get there. Honestly, after a couple of trips, I, a lover of traveling by car, really wondered if he was needed there;)

Affoltern cheese dairy is good because here you can see both the modern cheese production process and the old one - on fire. And you can even cook cheese with your own hands and take it with you (however, you need to agree on a master class in advance, and, as far as I understand, the option with the possibility of making your own cheese is only possible for groups).

So, let's cook Emmental!

Pour the fresh milk of the Alpine cows into a copper kettle. Move the cauldron to the fire (there is a tricky mechanism).
We heat the milk to a temperature slightly above room temperature, add the bacterial starter culture and enzyme, mix and leave for a while, so that the milk curdles and turns into a jelly-like mass.

The resulting clot (jelly-like mass) is cut into pieces using a special tool (lyre) and heated again, but harder (something about 50 degrees). From this moment on, for an hour, you need to constantly intensively stir the mass with various devices: in order to break the cheese curd into small pieces and form a cheese grain.

it is not an easy business - stirring cheese, a man's work. But they say there is also a woman cheesemaker in the dairy who works at this demonstration dairy. Great woman! With this device on the right, I myself tried to interfere.

When the curd is thickened and the whey is better, we collect the curd mass into a single lump using a natural coarse fabric, squeeze it a little, put it in a mold, squeeze it again, put the load on and leave it under the press for a while.

The whey is fed to piglets at a nearby farm. And we got a little bit.

They say that Emmental is one of the most complex cheeses in production. The head of cheese must be large, otherwise the gas cavities that form the holes will burst onto the surface of the cheese. This means that the cheese will no longer be able to ripen. The cheese that is cooked in an old cheese factory is still small, but on modern production- much more. How much do you think one such head weighs ??? But this is not the only difficulty. Alpine milk! Since it does not undergo pasteurization, it enters the product in its original form, as it is, with all its flavor nuances, which cannot but appear in the taste even after ripening. I had a chance to taste the freshest Alpine milk.

This cheese dairy is interesting because you can immediately see and compare the process of making cheese the old way and modern. In modern production, of course, completely different volumes. Although the original product and technology are still the same.

After the cheese has been loaded, it goes to the salt bath, where it spends several days. After the "spa", the cheese rests: first, in one chamber - warm (about 20 degrees), it is in the warmth that holes are formed, as well as the shape of the cheese (it ceases to be as flat as it was in a salt solution), then in another , a cooler chamber (about 12 degrees) - here it will mature further.

(in the top photo there are three cameras, stages of maturation: the first is a salt bath, the second is warm, the third is cool). During ripening, the cheese is constantly rubbed. The shelves on which it is aged are perforated and rotated 180 degrees. After the cheese has been grated, the whole block is turned over so that the underside of the cheese is on top.

By the way, it turns out that Emmental, like Parmigiano, can be of different exposure. Although in Moscow I bought only one species. Emmental is aged 5-10-30 months. The latter has a very interesting taste and texture! It is denser, drier, more astringent in taste; when broken, "rifts" characteristic of aged cheese appear, but at the same time the very holes for which Emmental is loved so much remain.

Unfortunately, this is not visible in the photo, the light was heavy, and everyone had already worked out for cheese ... their eyes were burning, like Roquefort from the famous cartoon about rodents)

And of course you can't leave the cheese dairy without trying the local fondue.
There is also a restaurant with a beautiful terrace right at the cheese dairy (one can only imagine what kind of views open up here in summer).

Great fondue! And a crazy giant ice cream and cream meringue. It's enough for the company.

Not far from the cheese dairy, in case the meringue in the restaurant is not enough for you, there is a bakery where the meringue is sold, as well as Bernese gingerbread. Delicious donuts are also baked on the way out.

I would love to come back here in the summer! I will not show winter landscapes. And don't ask! And so much too much!

Well ... are you tempted? Plan your trip to the cheese dairy!

Some of my impressions of Bern.
Everything you need to know about punctual Swiss transport is here.
There are 2 flights every day from Moscow to Zurich. By subscribing to the newsletter, you can, like me, receive information about promotions and track good prices. I don’t remember the last time I bought tickets through agencies and services, because I’m subscribed to most of the major airlines and I’m following the situation on my own. This is more comfortable.
Everything related to excursions and master classes can be found on the website of the cheese dairy.

PS So, I have been to Emmental, now I should also look at Gruyere (this, by the way, is also somewhere not far from Bern). Maybe in summer?
Well, then I'll get to France (I visited an Italian cheese dairy, a Swiss one too ...)

The visiting card of Emmental cheese is its large holes - "eyes" and an incomparable soft sweetish taste. Emmental cheese is very popular. People call it Swiss. And all because it is the basis of the Swiss national dish- cheese fondue.

Switzerland - the birthplace of cheeses

The most "safe" country for cheese is Switzerland. You can always see a herd of cows, which have long become the unspoken symbol of the country. Cattle really enjoy living in Switzerland. Green pastures, stretching for several kilometers, are ideal food for herbivores. As you know, the quality of cheese directly depends on its main component - milk. Can cows that eat natural meadow grass every day give bad milk? Of course not! Therefore, cheese and dairy products made in Switzerland are of high quality, incomparable taste and aroma. Emmental cheese is no exception.

Cheese product for a healthy diet

Almost all cheeses in Switzerland are made from fresh milk, therefore they are considered products of beauty, health and harmony. Cheese "Emmental" is called It is also made from fresh milk, which is given by Alpine cows, and then sent to the caves for ripening. The finished cheese is "decorated" with large holes and has a sweetish nutty flavor. By the way, its name milk product received from the river Emma. In its valley is the European center of cheese making - Bern.

The calorie content of Emmental cheese is 380 kcal per 100 g of product. The quality of the cheese can be determined by the shape of the holes and their "behavior". If a cheese product periodically "cries" - droplets of milk appear in its eyes - this indicates its highest quality. But today "crying" cheese is rarely seen on store shelves. During the period of its delivery to the retail network, all drops dry out.

How Emmental cheese is made

Fresh milk is used for the production of the famous cheese product. It is heated to +34 ° C and mixed with fermented milk enzymes. The resulting curdled milk is then crushed into granules. Then the mass is heated again, large heads are formed from it, which are kept in brine for three days. Further, the cheese product is sent to the caves for aging. The cheese is kept in a damp, cold room for one month, after which it is transferred to a warm cellar. The maturation period for Emmental cheese is 2-2.5 months. At the end of this period, the product is again placed in a cold cave. The ripening period of this variety lasts for 15-20 months. Emmental cheese turns out to be very beautiful and appetizing. The photo below allows you to verify this.

What can replace Emmental cheese

The Emmental Swiss hard cheese is used to prepare a variety of salads, desserts and main courses. It goes well with wine and fruit. Don't forget that Swiss cheese is the main ingredient in fondue. But not every refrigerator contains Emmental cheese. How to replace the famous product? Some housewives recommend using Gouda, Mozzarella or Maasdam cheeses in these cases. But still the Emmental cheese in its classic version gives the cheese fondue a special rich taste and impeccable aroma. Today, Swiss fondue is considered an aristocratic dish. Original recipe its preparation includes only Emmental cheese, wine, fresh bread. Today, in fondue cooking, these ingredients are being replaced by cherry liqueur, cheaper cheeses, and various spices. Often potatoes, olives, gherkins are added to the dish, but this is not at all the same ...

Swiss cheeses are consistently in high demand among consumers from all over the world. This is explained by the favorable ecological situation, which makes it possible to feed the animals for subsequent production only with organic food.

This is the origin of the excellent Emmental, the traditions of which are rooted in ancient times. Since then, elite cheese dairies still adhere to the classic canons, which guarantees ideal proportions with a balanced taste.

The delicacy got its name due to the fact that experts from the town of Bern, located on the Emma River, were the first to make it for mass consumption. The first mention of the now legendary product dates back to the 9th century, which once again proves the popularity of cheese at all times.

Smart approach

In addition to following proven cooking schemes, the Swiss also pay great attention to the issues of technological compliance with safety and hygiene requirements. All this together makes it possible to bring out the cheese traditional for the Alpine land, which has become famous far beyond the borders of the Motherland.

But this popularity has a significant drawback. The point is that dishonest manufacturers are constantly trying to repeat the recipe. Counterfeiting in the cheese market is a common thing.

To reduce the risks of a consumer to run into a dubious product under a promoted name, experts have come up with a separate classification for labeling. It makes it easier to distinguish an exquisite Swiss dish from a fake. Especially in this, the photo of the original helps, where you can see the features of the brand badge. It will not be superfluous to clarify the first digits in the barcode in advance, by which it is easy to recognize where the imported products came from.

But the safest way is to purchase such a delicacy on your own in private cheese dairies or brand shops of real Swiss factories while traveling through a beautiful country. There, the chances of running into a fake are almost zero.

Real cheese is made exclusively from cow's milk, which has passed a preliminary pasteurization stage. Swindlers usually ignore this requirement, which automatically means a deterioration in the taste characteristics of the final product.

Most gourmets know that Swiss craftsmen are renowned for their ability to brew hard varieties at a high level. The Emmental solution falls into just such a category. But in order to get an easily recognizable taste and recognizable structure, it will take about ten months of aging in special conditions. It is unlikely that it will be possible to repeat the entire rather complicated procedure at home, even with the proper skills. V best case it will be possible to make an analogue according to a similar recipe, but with a different smell and aftertaste, which is explained by different raw materials.

Calorie content and subspecies

The head ready for sale can reach 130 kg, which is usually enough for a small family for the entire winter season. The only problem is that it is only allowed to store it for two years after the completion of full maturation. To do this, you will need to observe the modes:

  • humidity;
  • temperature;
  • airing.

Due to this, repeat step by step instructions not everyone can thoroughly, which is why Emmental produced in other countries is similar to the original only in name and composition. At the same time, experts advise not to look for what to replace this delicacy with, and not to regret buying the original in a specialized store.

Do not be alarmed if there is some strange postscript on the price tags like, Conte. This is just an indication of a specific subspecies of Emmental cheese. They are identical in all respects except weight. Despite the fact that many countries are allowed to officially make this version of the table addition, gourmets prefer goods imported directly from Switzerland. If you can't find such a solution on the counter, then you can search for products from:

  • France;
  • Austria;
  • Finland;
  • Germany.

If the available variations inspire mistrust, then the culinary experts advise you to pay attention to, which is similar to its "older" Emmental brother. You can use it for fondue. The sauce turns out to be no less tasty, which is used at their own discretion by both the chefs of fashionable restaurants and the efficient hostesses.

It is better to eat the real Emmental for the first time in its pure form, and not look for recipes where an already melted slice is needed. It will delight you with its characteristic taste, which has sharp and spicy notes at the same time. The fruity-nutty aftertaste adds piquancy.

Professional tasters say that such a slice should smell like freshly cut grass and sour a little. But this is only appropriate in situations where the sample is removed immediately after the maturation period, right at the cheese dairy.

Separately, it should be recalled that this species is ranked among the fatty foods camp. Hence, it is quite high, which is more than 370 kcal per hundred grams of product. Despite this, the goodies will not bring serious damage to the figure, if you know when to stop. This is explained by the rich vitamin composition.

This variety is the real “king” of Swiss cheeses. Creamy, tender with large "holes", it is well known all over the world. The Emmentaler got its name from the Emme River, the main “waterway” in the Swiss canton of Bern. It was in this area that people learned how to make huge cheese "circles" back in the 13th century. For this, milk from Alpine cows was heated in large boilers.

After leavening and pressing, Emmental's circles ripened in large linen sacks, laid with spruce or juniper branches. This "neighborhood" gave the cheese a wonderful flavor and prevented the formation of mold.

Features manufacturing technology

Swiss cheeses are appreciated all over the world for their quality. Emmental, over the centuries of existence, has remained with the same technology and even more stringent requirements.

  • This variety is made from the freshest milk, which must be delivered to the cheese dairy no later than 18 hours after milking. It is produced mainly in the summer, as there is enough fresh milk during this time. It is said that the summer alpine herbs give the aroma and taste to the finished product.
  • To prepare 1 kg of this cheese, you need 10 liters of fresh milk. In special copper vats, it is heated to a temperature of 32 degrees. After that, rennet is added to the cheese mass, fermented milk sourdough and leave to curl warm. The resulting "lump" is cut with special strings into pieces - "grains". Then the mass is heated again at a temperature of 40-45 degrees.
  • The resulting mass is compressed, removing the whey, and soaked in a salt solution with the addition of spices. It turns out huge cheese circles up to 1 meter in size and weighing from 70 to 120 kg.

Where are the big holes in the cheese

This variety is characterized by large holes, where do they come from? The fact is that in the course of production, a sourdough containing special colonies of microbes capable of emitting carbon dioxide is added to the cheese mass. For maturation, the heads are stored in such conditions that the room temperature is 22-23 degrees. At this temperature, bacteria begin to multiply vigorously, emitting carbon dioxide, which, passing through the thickness of the cheese head, forms "holes". At the same time, the product is fermented - it acquires certain properties: taste, texture, color.

Ripening lasts from seven to twelve months. During this process, the heads are wiped with brine and lubricated vegetable oil... Once fully ripe, the cheese gets its familiar bright shell and is sent off for sale. Emmental keeps well. In Switzerland, there are still legends about the found 120-year-old heads of this variety. Moreover, the cheese found was incredibly tasty due to the long aging and its price went off scale. Finding a treasure in the form of a head of such cheese is a real success.

Where can I use Emmentaler

Emmental is especially revered by the Swiss. They consider it their national treasure, and believe that only the citizens of this country can appreciate its great taste. It is not known whether this is so, but this variety belongs to the cheeses that are imported in the largest quantities from this country.

The delicate taste of this cheese is perfect for many dishes, it is very tasty in sandwiches, sandwiches, various salads. However, it is believed that in order to taste the real Emmental, you need to visit Switzerland. This, of course, does not relate to Emmentaler's taste, but to the general idea of ​​cheeses, because eating a slice of a delicacy in one of the cafes on the shores of Lake Geneva is much more interesting than in the twenty-fifth floor in a Moscow apartment.

I was surprised to find that I had not yet written an article about Emmental - an interesting and clearly noteworthy Swiss / French cheese, which, moreover, is quite often found on sale in Russia. Well, I hasten to correct this omission. And I will say right away that the Russian "Emmental" is very different from the Swiss original - about the same as the Russian "Maasdam" differs from the real Dutch. In other words, it is better to buy Emmental made either in Switzerland or in France.

A bit of theory and history

Emmental cheese is made from both raw cow's milk; in our time, however, there may be options ("parodies" of the real Emmental) and pasteurized milk. The holding time (ripening) can be either 2-3 months or one and a half years.

The name of this cheese comes from the words Emme (the name of the valley in the canton of Bern) and tal (actually "valley" in German). The birthplace of Emmental, presumably, is this particular valley, the Emme Valley. Subsequently, however, they began to do it in other parts of Switzerland, as well as in France and in a number of other countries, including Germany, the Netherlands, Finland and even Russia.

However, in Switzerland itself, Emmental (also called Emmentaler) is a partially protected cheese in origin. There is the Emmentaler Switzerland AOC appellation (since 2000, the minimum aging period is 4 months) and, in addition, there is the protected name Emmentaler Switzerland Premier Cru, which is used only for those Emmentals that have been aged for at least 14 months. The definition of reserve is used to denote an Emmental aged for 8-13 months.

V classic composition Emmental cheese includes raw (= unpasteurized) cow's milk, edible salt, bacterial starter culture, milk-clotting enzyme (this is the composition of the Emmental brands EntreMont and Emmi). Some manufacturers (for example, President) add calcium chloride, a hardener that is harmless to health. Energy value of Emmentaler'a can range from 360 to 400 kcal / 100 grams. Fat content varies between 28-31%, mass fraction fat in dry matter is usually 45%.

Personal impressions

Emmental's color is light yellow, sometimes with a creamy tint; aged Emmental can have a very rich color. In the cheese mass there is a certain number of holes-eyes (sometimes there are quite a few, and sometimes there are few), the size of these holes can vary from small to large. Traditionally it was believed that what smaller holes in Emmental, the better and better the cheese. The consistency is very dense, but not always firm; not crumbling.

The smell can be quite intense, but not annoying; with fermented milk and light spicy notes. The taste is usually slightly sweet, full-bodied, with fermented milk, nutty, spicy and “fruity” notes; it is not sharp and sharp, although it can be somewhat piquant. The aftertaste is quite long and expressive. Salinity is moderate, usually even below average.

As for brands, I like Emmental from EntreMont more than from President: in my opinion, it has a richer and more interesting taste and aroma. In addition, the Emmental of the Swiss brand Emmi is good, but it is more expensive.

If you haven't tried Emmental yet, I recommend giving it a try. This is a very versatile cheese and will be loved by many.

Where to buy and how much does it cost

Emmental cheese is sold in many supermarkets and hypermarkets. At Perekrestok you can buy a 220-gram Emmental package from EntreMont for 145 rubles. In addition, the Swiss well-aged Emmental from Margot Fromages is sold at Crossroads, it costs about 950 rubles per kilogram.

In the Seventh Continent, you can buy the Emmental of the President brand, the price is about 850 rubles per kilogram (when buying by weight, factory-packed 200-gram pieces cost more than 250 rubles apiece). In Platypus there is a Swiss Emmental from the Emmi brand, it is expensive - 260 rubles / 200 grams. In Magnet and Dixie, French and even more so Swiss Emmental is not for sale.

Innings

As is the case with any more or less matured cheeses, it is better to remove Emmental from the refrigerator in advance (but slicing before serving). This is a very versatile cheese: it is good for sandwiches, for a cheese plate, for eating neat (as a snack), in combination with meat snacks; it is added to hot dishes and salads, pizza. It is also a traditionally used fondue cheese.

Emmentaler goes well with not very complex dry red wines, in particular, from Sira / Shiraz, Sangiovese grapes.

Articles about similar cheeses : (Switzerland), and (Russia).